Philips OLED770 vs Hisense U7S / U77SE

The Philips OLED770 does not attempt to compete with the brightest OLEDs on the market, and it would actually be hard to expect that, as it is the lowest model in Philips's series for 2025. In our measurements, it achieved a maximum brightness of about 700 nits, which allows for enjoyment of HDR effects in scenes where light appears point-wise – for example, in the flash of headlights or a starry sky. In such moments, the picture can truly impress. However, it is different when there are more bright elements on the screen. The television, like many cheaper OLEDs, limits brightness in those cases, and the entire picture noticeably dims. This was best seen in a scene from the movie The Meg, where the sun rises behind an oil rig – at that point, the brightness dropped to about 250 nits, nearly three times less. The HDR effect remains visually pleasing, but it is worth being aware that this model performs best in scenes with less intense light. Fortunately, the OLED770 has an ace up its sleeve – the coverage of the DCI-P3 color palette is as high as 99%, so colors in movies and games are saturated and very close to what the creator intended to convey.

The Hisense U7S has considerable HDR potential, but it can't use it in every scene. On a test pattern it reaches around 1,100 nits, so the backlight itself is very strong. In our brighter film scenes we measured about 640 to 745 nits. That's still enough for the sun or bright highlights to have a noticeable glow and to show an advantage over SDR material. When the TV needs to illuminate a larger portion of the image, it does quite well.

The problem appears with small lights on a dark background. Each of the 192 zones covers an area much larger than a tiny point on the screen. If the TV were to strongly light such a zone, it would also brighten the surrounding area along with the light. Hisense tries to avoid that and dims the entire zone. Black levels therefore look better, but a small bright object that should draw the eye also loses intensity. That's why in two tougher scenes we recorded only 297 and 154 nits. The difference is large: in one shot HDR can impress, and in the next small lights are noticeably muted. The U7S therefore prioritizes maintaining deep blacks, even at the expense of bright details. With this number of zones that's an understandable compromise, but it's worth remembering — the 1,100-nit peak tells us about the backlight's capability, not how brightly the TV will render every element of a film.

Colors

Hisense calls the U7S ULED, but that's a marketing name; the wider color gamut here comes from a PFS phosphor backlight. In our measurements the TV covered about 91% of DCI-P3 and 71% of BT.2020. Those are good results, although it falls short of the best screens on the market. The biggest shortfall is in green — the TV doesn't even reach the DCI-P3 target there, so the most saturated shades will be less intense than they should be. Most colors in HDR films and series, however, still look suitably rich. A positive is the repeatability of the results. Gamut coverage on test patterns and in film scenes is practically identical.

The first measurements already show that the factory settings of the Philips OLED770 have a lot to improve even in Filmmaker mode. The white balance chart clearly shows a lack of blue, which gives the image a slightly yellowish tint. In practice, the white is not snow-white, but leans towards warmer hues – which some may even like, but from the accuracy perspective, this is a deviation from the norm. The gamma, on the other hand, tends to be on the darker side – the average value is about 2.6 instead of the reference 2.4. In the mid-tones, the image appears muted and more saturated, which may look too "filmic," but takes away some naturalness. However, the biggest issues can be seen in color reproduction. The average error is relatively high, and some colors – especially shades of gray – clearly deviate from what should be seen. In everyday viewing, this means that sometimes colors may look less natural than we would wish.

The out-of-the-box colors on the Hisense U7S are decent, but there are a few things to improve. In SDR there's a red bias in the white balance, which makes the image too warm and in places slightly pink. You can notice this on faces and on bright, neutral surfaces. Gamma also runs below the reference, so the TV brightens the image, especially in darker areas. That makes shadow details easier to see, but the scene loses some of its depth.

In HDR the white balance is a bit more even, but not completely neutral; midtones lack blue, and the brightest areas lack red. A bigger problem is how brightness is reproduced. The EOTF curve shows that a large portion of midtones is being brightened, so the image looks brighter than the source material intends. Color Checker measurements also perform worse than in SDR: many errors are around 3 to 4, and individual ones reach as high as 8. Colors can therefore look attractive, but they are not always faithful to what we should be seeing. There's room for improvement, and we'll check how much can be corrected with calibration.

Philips OLED770 has shown signs from the beginning that it houses significant potential, but it was difficult to fully see this in the factory settings. The image was sometimes too warm, and some colors seemed to have lost their naturalness along the way. However, calibration revealed that it is a television very receptive to adjustments – it reacted to every correction and almost immediately unveiled another layer of its capabilities. The white balance was successfully set both in SDR and HDR, eliminating the yellowish glow and presenting a neutral, clear white. Gamma stabilized closer to perfection, allowing midtones to regain their naturalness, and shadows no longer appeared artificially darkened, possibly even with a slight brightening effect. The effect was obvious... Movies are watched with greater ease; the image has cinematic depth, but without the feeling that something is exaggeratedly darkened. However, the most interesting part was the work on colors. Out of the box, the errors were not dramatic but slightly noticeable – skin tones were sometimes too warm, and gray didn’t always have the shade we expected. After calibration, the error values dropped to around 2, and in many cases even below 1. This is a level significantly lower than the threshold of perception for the human eye. In other words, after correction, the colors finally “clicked” into place. Looking at the screen, we had the impression that the television had begun to speak with a full voice. Like an instrument that has finally been well-tuned.

Calibration of the Hisense U7S helped most with SDR content. We managed to even out the white balance, so the previous warm cast is gone and whites and grays look neutral. Gamma is also now very close to the reference, and the TV no longer brightens the image unnecessarily, so darker scenes have regained depth. Color Checker measurements confirm the improvement: most errors fall below 2. That yields a really well-calibrated picture for regular TV and SDR movies. It didn't go as smoothly in HDR. The TV lacks an effective way to correct the EOTF curve, so Hisense still interprets the content's brightness a bit on its own. It brightens parts of the image and can dim the brightest elements depending on the scene and the local dimming behavior. Calibration couldn't eliminate this. It shows up in the Color Checker results as well, where many errors remain around 3–4 and individual ones exceed 7. So in SDR the result is very good, but in HDR we have to accept that the TV adds its own interpretation of brightness to the image.

The problem of the previously mentioned color connections can largely be mitigated by the "distortion reduction" feature, which is an algorithm for smoothing tonal transitions in Philips TVs. It works best at a low setting—effectively eliminating unwanted color bands while not introducing strange artifacts or losing image detail. It's one of those features that is truly worth keeping switched on.

The issue with upscaling is somewhat less favorable. The image from a lower resolution can be too soft, while at the same time, distinctive "jaggies" appear in certain areas. The impression is that the algorithm is trying to reconcile two contradictory directions—smoothing and sharpening—and ultimately hasn't found the golden mean. As a consolation, it's worth noting that the television has no issues with overscan, meaning it doesn't cut off the edges of the image, which sometimes happens with other competing models.

The handling of lower-quality material on the Hisense U7S is fairly mediocre. The Pentonic 700 chipset used here doesn't cope well with the effects of heavy compression. The menu includes a "Smooth & Gradient" picture option, but its performance leaves much to be desired. At the low setting it's hard to notice any improvement in tonal transitions, although at least the image isn't degraded. The medium and high settings still don't remove visible banding between shades and begin to smear details; in our test clips even parts of characters' faces disappeared. Interestingly, film grain remains untouched at every level. If you use this feature, we'd stick with the low setting. Its current behavior needs refinement, but that's mainly down to the processor used. Upscaling to 4K performs much better. Lower-resolution footage gains clarity, edges are well reconstructed, and fine elements look crisp. That doesn't mean it can recover details that weren't in the recording, but the TV makes good use of what it gets from the source. Another plus is that it doesn't crop the image edges, even with an SD signal.

The issue of the panel in the Philips OLED770 is not entirely straightforward. The manufacturer claims a 120 Hz panel, but our measurements showed that the screen can accept a 4K signal even at 144 Hz. This sounds like great news – because who wouldn't want an extra mode for PC gaming at this price? However, the reality turned out to be more complex. With 120 Hz materials, the television behaves like most OLEDs – the picture is absolutely clear, with no trace of ghosting or blurring, making it ideal for both fast-paced games and sports broadcasts. The problem arises only at 144 Hz. Unlike models with official support for that frequency, here we observe the phenomenon of so-called frame skipping. This means that the television is unable to display all frames – some of them are skipped, causing the motion to lose fluidity, and double outlines appear on the screen. The effect resembles the operation of the BFI function, which Philips does not offer in this model anyway.

Motion handling on the Hisense U7S is pretty good thanks to the 144 Hz refresh rate. For movies we also have a motion smoothing feature that lets you adjust judder and blur reduction. You can therefore keep a more cinematic motion or increase smoothness if abrupt camera shifts bother you. In sports and games the high refresh rate is also useful, but unfortunately it doesn't solve this panel's biggest problem.

The culprit is pixel response time. Fast-moving objects leave long, noticeable trails, as our UFO test shows. It's worst on dark backgrounds, where the trail behind the object is especially pronounced. So motion can be smooth, but the moving object itself loses sharpness, and that difference on the U7S is fairly easy to notice.

If someone is looking for a gaming TV, the Philips OLED770 is a candidate that's hard to ignore. The mere fact that we have an OLED here provides a great starting point – perfect blacks and infinite contrast make evening sessions in atmospheric games look like they’ve been pulled straight from the cinema. On top of that, there’s the Ambilight system, which features LEDs on the back of the TV that extend the image onto the wall behind the screen. The effect is such that even regular gameplay in FIFA can look like a small spectacle, and in horror games, the atmosphere becomes really intense. On the technical side, it’s pretty good as well. The Philips OLED770 supports Variable Refresh Rate (VRR) up to 120 Hz, has an automatic low latency mode for gamers (ALLM), and if someone is using an Xbox Series X, they can also count on Dolby Vision support in games. You just need to know that in this mode, input lag is slightly higher than standard, although still at an acceptable level. As a bonus, we get the “Game Bar” panel, which is a special tool strip for gamers. It's not the most conveniently designed solution, but it allows you to check key parameters without leaving the game. In total, this presents a picture of a TV that on one hand has all the most important gaming features, and on the other can add something unique – Ambilight. And it’s this mix of technology and visual effect that makes the OLED770 one of the better screens for gaming in a home environment.

The Hisense U7S has a lot to offer gamers. You get two HDMI 2.1 ports and support for 120 Hz at Full HD, 1440p, and 4K, so modern consoles’ capabilities are well used. When connected to a PC you can use 144 Hz at 4K or switch the resolution to Full HD and run 240 Hz. So there’s a wide choice, although it’s worth remembering the motion smearing mentioned earlier, which the high refresh rate does not eliminate. VRR and ALLM are also present. The first helps prevent tearing when frame rates in a game change. The second automatically switches the TV into game mode, so you don’t have to dig through the menu each time. VRR works from 48 to 240 Hz, with the highest refresh rate available in Full HD. Xbox users can also play in Dolby Vision, including at 120 Hz. Importantly, this format does not introduce significant input lag here. The Game Bar also looks very good. It’s easy to read, visually appealing, and lets you quickly check what signal the TV is receiving. There are also handy gaming settings at your fingertips, including shadow brightening. If it’s hard to spot an opponent in a dark game, you can improve visibility without digging through the entire menu.

Our biggest complaints concern HGiG. Hisense continues to do its own tone mapping, which makes setting HDR on the console confusing. You adjust a checkerboard test pattern and the TV continuously adapts how it looks. As a result, the moment the pattern disappears does not correctly indicate the screen’s brightness limit, and it’s easy to set the value too high. For this model it’s better to set the target HDR peak brightness on the console to about 900 to 1000 nits, rather than relying on the configurator.