Philips PUS8359 (VA) vs Sony BRAVIA 7 II

The Philips PUS8359 has low brightness levels; however, dynamic tone mapping works surprisingly well, making it worth praising!

The Sony Bravia 7 II handles HDR very well and, above all, is simply a bright TV. In the proper "Professional" viewing mode we measured about 2000 nits of peak brightness, so the panel's capabilities are really substantial. Of course, with Mini-LEDs the result on a test pattern is only part of the story, because a lot depends on how the TV controls the backlight in real scenes. And here Sony's algorithms perform really well. Depending on the scene, the brightness we measured in movies ranged from around 1100 up to 1700 nits. That's already a level at which HDR has the proper punch and bright effects can really impress. It's not perfect in every situation, though. With small bright elements on a very dark background the Bravia 7 II clearly prioritizes maintaining good black levels, which can cause their brightness to drop to around 500 nits. It still looks good, but you can see the TV doesn't always operate without compromises.

Colors

The second thing that has a huge impact on the HDR effect is, of course, color. And this is where True RGB technology was supposed to bring one of the biggest changes. Looking at the panel's raw capabilities, the Bravia 7 II performs very well. We measured about 98% DCI‑P3 coverage and 88% BT.2020, so the potential to display highly saturated colors is really large. However, in RGB TVs the situation is a bit more complex. When we performed the same measurements with a movie background applied, the gamut coverage dropped to about 92% DCI‑P3 and 78% BT.2020. Those are still good figures, especially for an RGB Mini-LED TV, but they clearly show that the final result largely depends on how the algorithms control the three backlight colors. In most scenes the Bravia 7 II handles this well and colors retain high saturation. The biggest differences are seen in shades of blue, where samples start to deviate more noticeably from the reference values and coverage is weaker than for the other primary colors. So True RGB does offer real additional possibilities here, but like with brightness, much depends on what is actually happening on the screen.

The best factory mode for fidelity to the source material was the "Film" mode, which we used during our tests. As with all factory modes in televisions, it has flaws, and we’ll now examine what went wrong in both SDR and HDR materials. In both cases, the white balance showed an excessive dominance of green and red, resulting in a yellowish tint across the entire image. This caused issues such as yellowed whites and problems with skin tones. This was clearly illustrated on the "ColourChecker" palette, where each tested sample shifted towards warmer equivalents. The foundation of the image lies in contrast and black levels, represented by gamma charts and the EOTF curve. Looking at the gamma chart, we saw a real rollercoaster, with both elevated and lowered gamma. The elevated gamma caused visibility issues in blacks, while the lowered gamma led to a dramatic drop in contrast. In this context, the EOTF curve performed significantly better, as it only mildly brightened the image.

To evaluate the out-of-the-box colors we chose Professional mode, because it performs best among the available settings. It's not perfect, though. In SDR the white balance leans slightly toward magenta, so some scenes look a bit warmer and less neutral than they should. A bigger issue is the gamma, which sits closer to 2.5 than 2.4. That makes the image a bit too dark in places, especially in the midtones. In HDR the situation is better. As brightness increases there is a bit too much red, but it's not a fault that stands out during viewing. Overall, Professional mode is a good starting point, although you can get a little more out of it with calibration.

Philips offers a wide range of image calibration tools in its higher-end and more affordable models. We used these tools, but the process was not as straightforward as many might expect. While we adjusted the white balance, significantly improved the gamma, and refined the EOTF curve in both SDR and HDR content, the deltaE errors remained extremely high. Several factors contribute to this situation, including the limited coverage of the DCI-P3 colour gamut and the unit's maximum brightness in HDR materials.

After calibration the Bravia 7 II can look significantly better. First of all, we managed to set the white balance very well, both in SDR and HDR. Gamma can also be improved, and after correction it runs very close to the reference value. For most users, those changes will have the biggest impact on the picture. There is, however, a limitation when it comes to colors. On the Bravia 7 II Sony does not provide access to a classic CMS that would let us adjust individual hues separately. A lot is therefore left in the hands of the algorithms controlling the True RGB backlight. If the TV reproduces a specific color inaccurately, we are not always able to do anything about it. In our measurements this is most evident with some reds and blues, where errors can still be quite large. That does not, however, diminish the value of calibration. Correctly setting the white point and gamma strongly affects the overall image, so even without the ability to precisely tweak every color the difference compared with the factory settings is noticeable.

In this paragraph, we will take a look at two functionalities. We will once again look at the function responsible for tonal transitions, but we will also check how the television handles image scaling. The option responsible for smooth gradation is called "Distortion Reduction." As we have established, it quite effectively smooths out imperfections. However, we need to point out two things: we cannot enable it for HDR material and it blurs details in films.

The tested television cannot boast the best image scaling. There is a noticeable overall blurriness of the image, but what is worse, it blurs details. This is particularly visible on the branches and the model's hair. Additionally, a characteristic white halo can often be seen surrounding characters.

Upscaling and digital processing are among the Bravia 7 II's strongest assets and one of Sony's biggest advantages over the competition. Sony has handled digital image processing well for years, and it shows here too. Above all, the "Smooth Gradation" function works very well; it can smooth weak tonal transitions in lower-quality content. It's safest to set it to Low, but we'd comfortably recommend Medium as well. The effect is stronger then, and the TV still handles details very delicately. Some fine detail may be slightly smoothed, but Sony does it much more subtly than many other brands. The upscaling itself also performs very well. Lower-resolution sources are well upscaled to 4K; the picture looks clean and retains a lot of detail. Of course the TV won't magically turn native HD material into true 4K, but the Bravia 7 II does a very good job with what can be extracted from such a source.

The Philips PUS8359 is not the best choice for watching sports. This is primarily due to the absence of even a basic motion smoothing feature, which given the price point, is not entirely surprising. Additionally, the television uses a VA panel, which, while offering high contrast, is not known for its sharpness or fast response times. As demonstrated in our analysis, fast-moving scenes often result in noticeable blurring, a common issue with this type of panel.

Although it is not an ideal option, the TV can be used for sports viewing with some compromises, particularly regarding motion sharpness. It's also worth noting that films are prone to stuttering since the TV lacks any form of motion smoothing, even the most basic functionality.

The Bravia 7 II uses a 120 Hz panel, so in terms of motion smoothness it delivers everything you’d expect from a TV in this class. With sports or games at 120 fps the picture is appropriately smooth, and for movies Sony provides an advanced motion smoothing feature. You can adjust the level of interpolation separately and decide whether you want to keep a more cinematic motion or achieve noticeably smoother motion. The issue of motion blur is a bit worse. The VA panel used isn’t among the fastest, and you can notice a slight trail behind moving objects, especially on darker backgrounds. It’s not at a level that will be highly distracting during normal viewing, but last year’s Bravia 7 performed better in this respect and had a noticeably faster panel.

Unsurprisingly the Philips PUS8359/12 offers only the most basic support for consoles. When connecting a console, users can rely on features like VRR (Variable Refresh Rate) and ALLM (Auto Low Latency Mode). VRR is particularly commendable, as even some higher-end models can struggle with this functionality.

A noteworthy addition is the implementation of a dedicated GameBar, which allows for on-the-fly adjustments without needing to exit the game, minimising unnecessary distractions. This feature also provides options to tailor gameplay for individuals with disabilities, making it a highly commendable inclusion.

The Bravia 7 II essentially has everything you'd expect from a good console TV today. It supports 4K at 120 Hz, VRR from 48 to 120 Hz, and ALLM, so when you start a game the TV automatically switches to low-latency mode. There's also a properly working HGiG, which means that after setting up HDR on the console the TV won't try to further brighten the image on its own. Just remember to turn off tone mapping in the TV's menu. Dolby Vision in game mode is another plus, especially for Xbox owners. Sony also includes its own Game Menu. From it you can quickly view key signal information, check VRR, or change gaming settings without digging through the TV's entire menu. The only thing missing from the feature list is support for 1440p at 120 Hz.

Our biggest complaint is not really with the features themselves, but with the connectors. The Bravia 7 II has four HDMI ports, but only two of them support full HDMI 2.1 at 48 Gbps. One of those is also an eARC port. So if you connect a soundbar or AV receiver via HDMI, in practice you have only one full HDMI 2.1 port left for a console or PC. With a single console that's fine, but with a PS5, an Xbox, and an audio setup it starts to get tight. That's hard to justify from Sony. Two HDMI 2.1 ports might be acceptable in cheaper TVs, but in a model of this class, especially in 2026, we'd expect all four ports to be HDMI 2.1.