Hisense A6Q vs Hisense U7S / U77SE

Unfortunately, the Hisense A6Q is hard to recommend for watching HDR content. The main issue remains the low brightness and quite modest coverage of a wide colour gamut. A measured brightness of about 300 nits simply isn't enough for HDR materials to look impressive. In practice, the image often resembles standard SDR rather than true HDR with clear differences in brightness and dynamics. Additionally, colours in such content do not appear as they should. The TV does not utilise additional filters like QLED or PFS LED, and a DCI-P3 coverage of around 80% makes some colours look just too pale. As a result, some scenes in HDR materials lose intensity and spectacle, making it hard to talk about a proper HDR experience.

The Hisense U7S has considerable HDR potential, but it can’t make full use of it in every scene. On a test pattern it reaches about 1100 nits, so the backlight is genuinely strong. In our brighter film scenes we measured around 640 to 745 nits. That’s still enough for the sun or bright highlights to have a distinct bloom and to show an advantage over SDR material. When the TV needs to light a larger portion of the image, it handles it quite well.

The problem appears with small lights on a dark background. Each of the 192 zones covers an area considerably larger than a tiny point on the screen. If the TV were to drive such a zone strongly, it would brighten the surrounding area along with the light. Hisense tries to avoid that and dims the whole zone. Blacks look better as a result, but a small bright object that should draw the eye also loses intensity. That’s why in two tougher scenes we recorded only 297 and 154 nits. The difference is large: in one shot HDR can impress, and in the next small highlights are noticeably muted. The U7S therefore prioritises keeping deep blacks, even at the expense of bright details. With this number of zones it’s an understandable compromise, but it’s worth remembering that the peak 1100 nits tells us about the backlight’s capability, not how brightly the TV will show every element of a film.

Colours

Hisense markets the U7S as ULED, but that’s a marketing name; the wider colour gamut here is achieved by a PFS phosphor backlight. In our measurements the TV covered about 91% of the DCI-P3 space and 71% of BT.2020. Those are good results, though a little short of the best screens on the market. The biggest shortfall is in green — the TV doesn’t even reach the DCI-P3 boundary there, so the most intense green hues will be less saturated than they should be. Most colours in HDR films and series still look suitably vivid, however. A positive is the repeatability of the results: gamut coverage on test patterns and in film scenes is practically identical.

We conducted the tests in the best available mode, which is Filmmaker, however – as is often the case – this does not mean the image is perfect straight out of the box. In the case of Hisense A6Q, this mode clearly “swallowed” too much blue in everyday SDR content. In practice, this led to an image with yellowed whites, particularly noticeable on large, bright surfaces. This does not result from poor assumptions of the Filmmaker mode itself or from the vision of filmmakers, but from factory settings that require adjustment.
Additionally, looking at the saturation characteristics and gamma curve in SDR, as well as EOTF in HDR content, there is a slight tendency to brighten most scenes. As a result, the image often appears brighter than it should, losing a bit of its naturalness. For this reason, we decided to perform a professional calibration to restore the proper colour balance and a more accurate brightness characteristic.

Factory colours on the Hisense U7S are decent, but there are a few things to fix. In SDR the white balance favours red, so the image looks too warm, in places with a slightly pink tint. You can see this on faces and bright, neutral surfaces. Gamma also runs below the target, so the TV brightens the image, especially in darker areas. That makes it easier to see shadow detail, but the scene loses some of its depth.

In HDR the white balance is a bit more even, but not completely neutral, with midtones lacking blue and the brightest parts lacking red. A bigger problem is the way brightness is reproduced. The EOTF curve shows that a large portion of the midtones is boosted, making the image appear brighter than the source material intends. Color Checker measurements also fare worse than in SDR: many errors are around 3 to 4, and individual ones reach as high as 8. Colours can therefore look attractive, but they're not always faithful to what we should be seeing. There’s room for improvement and we’ll see how much can be corrected with calibration.

Colours after calibration on the Hisense A6Q need to be evaluated in two ways, as everything depends on the type of content. In the case of SDR materials, the effect is really quite good. In daily programs, series, and movies, it’s hard to find any serious issues with colours. The yellow tint has been effectively removed, and the television has also stopped washing out the entire image. As a result, the ColorChecker test showed errors below a Delta 2 value, which are already outstanding results, allowing for a discussion of very high picture quality in standard content. Unfortunately, the situation looks much worse for HDR materials. Yes, the white balance has been corrected and the EOTF curve has been improved, but the limitations of the panel itself remain insurmountable. The lack of support for a wide colour gamut means that the television still generates quite significant colour errors. Parts of the colours simply cannot be displayed by the screen, making them look less saturated than they should. It’s a pity because even a simple PFS or QLED filter would have resulted in a significantly better end effect. The conclusion is therefore simple – for SDR content, the A6Q after calibration works really very well, while viewing HDR content on it should still be approached with caution.

Calibrating the Hisense U7S did the most for SDR content. We managed to even out the white balance, so the earlier warm tint is gone and whites and greys look neutral. Gamma now sits very close to the reference, so the TV no longer brightens the image unnecessarily and darker scenes have regained depth. Color Checker measurements confirm the improvement: most errors are below 2. For watching regular TV and SDR films, this delivers a really well calibrated picture. Calibration in HDR wasn’t as smooth. The TV lacks an effective way to correct the EOTF curve, so Hisense still interprets the film’s brightness a bit on its own. It brightens parts of the image and, depending on the scene and local dimming, can tone down the brightest elements. That couldn’t be eliminated by calibration. This also shows up in the Color Checker results, where many errors remain around 3–4 and some exceed 7. In SDR the result is therefore very good, but in HDR we have to accept that the TV adds its own interpretation of brightness to the image.

Upscaling on the Hisense A6Q works really well for a TV in this price range. Lower resolution materials are correctly “upscaled” to higher resolutions, and the image remains clear without any artificial edge sharpening or the typical "over-sharpening" found in cheap models. Unfortunately, the digital processing is significantly poorer. In practice, it’s hard to talk about any advanced artifact smoothing or masking of problematic tonal transitions. In heavily compressed films—especially those from YouTube—the TV struggles with reducing compression blocks and unwanted banding, making the material's imperfections clearly visible. The A6Q scales the image well, but when it comes to digital processing, it leaves the user alone with the source quality.

The processing of lower-quality material in the Hisense U7S is fairly average. The Pentonic 700 chipset used here doesn't cope particularly well with the effects of heavy compression. There's a "Smooth and Gradient Picture" function in the menu, but its performance leaves a lot to be desired. At the low setting it's hard to see any improvement in tonal transitions, though at least the picture doesn't suffer. Medium and high settings still don't remove visible banding between tones and begin to blur details; in our clips parts of characters' faces even vanished. Interestingly, film grain remains untouched at every level. If you do use this function, stick to the low setting. Its current performance needs refinement, but that's mainly down to the processor used here.

Upscaling to 4K performs much better. Lower-resolution content gains clarity, edges are well reproduced and fine details look sharp. That doesn't mean the TV can recover details that weren't in the recording, but it makes good use of what's provided by the source. Another plus is the lack of edge cropping, even with an SD signal.

The fluidity of motion on the Hisense A6Q is... well, quite average. It's a TV with a native refresh rate of 60 Hz in 4K, which means the movement of objects on the screen doesn't always look perfectly smooth. In dynamic scenes in films or sports, it's evident that this is not the strongest point of this model. The situation looks much better with 1080p content when connecting a console or computer, as the A6Q can then operate at up to 120 Hz. That's a big plus, especially for gamers. However, the sharpness of motion still leaves a lot to be desired, with noticeable ghosting, and the response time of the panel shows that it isn't one of the TV's strong suits.

Motion handling on the Hisense U7S is decent thanks to its 144 Hz refresh rate. For films there's also a motion smoothing option with adjustable judder and blur reduction. You can keep a more cinematic feel to motion or increase smoothness if choppy camera pans bother you. High refresh is also useful for sport and gaming, but unfortunately it doesn't solve the panel's biggest problem.

The issue is pixel response time. Fast-moving objects leave long, distinct trails, as our UFO test shows. It's worst on dark backgrounds, where the trail is particularly pronounced. So motion can be smooth, but the moving object loses sharpness, and that difference on the U7S is fairly easy to spot.

For such an inexpensive television, the Hisense A6Q really can surprise with what it offers gamers. It operates in 4K only at 60 Hz, but when the game switches to performance mode and drops to 1080p, the panel can work at even 120 Hz. In this price range, that's a big plus, as most titles on consoles don’t deliver a stable 4K at 120 frames. In practice, we are realistically gaming in 1080p, and here the A6Q provides a very enjoyable gaming experience. Additionally, it has a few features that are usually found in more expensive models: ALLM, VRR, and Dolby Vision Gaming for Xbox Series X/S. Everything is gathered in one place, in a simple and convenient Game Bar, so you don't need to dig through the entire menu. For such an affordable piece of equipment, it's really a solid setup for gamers — maybe not for the most demanding, but definitely spot on for occasional gaming.

The Hisense U7S has plenty to offer gamers. You get two HDMI 2.1 ports and support for 120 Hz in Full HD, 1440p and 4K, so modern consoles’ capabilities are well utilised. When connected to a PC you can use 144 Hz at 4K or switch the resolution to Full HD and run 240 Hz. So there’s a lot of choice, although it’s worth remembering the motion smearing mentioned earlier, which the high refresh rate doesn’t eliminate. VRR and ALLM are present as well. VRR helps keep the picture tear-free when a game’s frame rate changes. ALLM automatically switches the TV into game mode, so you don’t have to go into the menu each time. VRR works from 48 to 240 Hz, with the highest refresh rate available in Full HD. Xbox users can also play in Dolby Vision at 120 Hz. Importantly, that format does not cause significant input lag here. The Game Bar also looks great. It’s clear and attractive, and lets you quickly check what signal the TV is receiving. Handy gaming settings are close to hand too, including shadow brightening. If it’s hard to spot an opponent in a dark game, you can improve visibility without digging through the whole menu.

Our biggest complaint is HGiG. Hisense keeps doing its own tone mapping, which makes setting up HDR on the console confusing. You adjust the checkerboard pattern, and the TV continually alters its appearance. As a result, the point at which the pattern disappears does not correctly indicate the display’s brightness limit, and it’s easy to set the value too high. For this model it’s better to set the target HDR brightness on the console to around 900 to 1000 nits, rather than rely on the configurator.